Part FOUR
The Sea of Zanj/Indian Ocean.
 
Our passage up the Mozambique Channel was a fitting prelude to what was to be the first sustained spell of calm weather we had known since leaving England, some 153 days ago. But before we embarked for good on the peaceful, sunny waters of the Seychelles, we had to endure a final act of malice by the “Cruel Sea”.

2nd November we were wallowing hideously in the swell off Diego Suarez (situated at the very north tip of Madagascar), while torrential rain did nothing to damp the oceans exuberance. With expert manouvering we made it alongside.

The downpour continued all the time we were alongside, and in view of a cyclone warning we cut short our proposed one day visit and sailed after only two hours. Soon after the swell began to subside; and next day we began our halcyon month among the islands by stopping at midday off Farquhar Island, so that we could have a good look at our first coral island.

5th November, Mahe. At 0800hrs in a faint morning mist we moored ship a couple of hundred yards off, one of worlds most beautiful islands. Even before the “hook” had touched the bottom and we received our first welcoming signal:
“Have no fear,
Sharkies here,
Lots of beer,
Sharkie”


Our visit here and to the neighbouring islands was to last for four weeks.
Eat your heart out Kuoni, Thompson Holidays and others, this was for free, with full board and getting paid for it!

Throughout this time we had the CinC embarked and between our two visits to Mahe we also flew the flag of His Excellency the Governor of the Seychelles Sir John Thorp, who with  Lady Thorp joined us for this part of the cruise. This was rather annoying at times due to the fact that, if Lady Thorp was up on the bridge sunbathing, this meant us poor jacks working on the upperdeck had to put our shirts on. Obviously Sir John did not have such a manly chest as us “ ‘airy arsed sailors!” 

 I also wondered as to the sleeping arrangements in the Captains small cabin, for a Sir, a Lady, a Admiral, and a Captain! The Captains steward was very tight lipped, probably bribed!

Sir John’s tour of the islands in his care was done normally by island schooner, so he jumped at the chance to visit in one of HM Ships (show off!) For many of us some of the clearest memories of this period will be the almost ritual landings, in surf boats of varying splendour, of the Governors party at each island he visited. Ashore Sir John would tour the facilities of the island (if any), while Lady Thorp distributed and received presents and the ships doctor performed a variety of improvised but effective dental operations on the islanders.

PHOTO Main Street , Victoria, Mahe

Of the surf-boats the most impressive was at Poivre Island, where the crew were smartly dressed in a naval style uniform, with huge straw hats. The crew who were kept in perfect order by a veteran with rows of medal ribbons, pulled the mile to shore with great verve.
Almost as ritual as the landings were the tributes, usually edible, brought off the islanders by the Governor. Vegetable matter was dealt with, with no problem, though four scrawny fowls, very much alive and kicking, were masterly dealt with by the Butcher, no formula was found for dividing them among 200 ratings! The obstinate mobility of four large land crabs caused confusion among the cooks, while two goat carcases were promptly dispatched to the cold-room to await their fate as shark bait.
Mahe, the largest of Seychelles islands, welcomed us with a dance at the Pirates Arms, which boasted one of the finest beaches in the world, Beau Vallon, a white crescent of palm fringed sands two miles long.

The best bar in town was most certainly “Sharkies” an ex brit married to a local with a couple of the most beautiful daughters, who were immediately put “out of bounds” by mine host. 
 Sharkies clapped out old jeep would pick you up from the jetty and return you to same the worst for wear!
 This was also our Shore Patrol HQ, unofficial of course, the patrol got more free beer than that, never a shortage of volunteers to do this duty! I can now divulge this most secret after over 40 years. Is there anyone left to put ‘em in the “Rattle”? 
 
We visited nine islands in the Seychelles during the month of November. The Island of Aldabra was most memorable for its giant tortoise. The last tortoise of this size we had last seen was in the grounds of Government House on St Helena- reputed to have been 200 years old.

Aldabra, is situated 630 miles from Mahe and 250 miles NW of Madagascar. An oval ring of islands around a central lagoon, reputedly used by the German cruiser KONIGSBERG (surely that’s a lager!), during the First World War.

PHOTO German WW1 Cruiser Konigsberg 
 
Navigationally the islands had their peculiarities. Little Astove, inconsiderately five miles away from its charted position, was rivalled by Assumption
Island , which rose so suddenly out of the sea, that one cable off shore the depth was over 100 fathoms.
The Seychelles was something of a navigational nightmare. The only charts available were sadly out of date, some of them over 100 years. Many a craft has ended up stranded in the Seychelles coral abounding blue waters. Thankfully we had the latest technology to assist us in our navigation, and charts were re-written as we moved from island to island.


Farquhar Island proved to have an excellent beach, and proved supreme, Conch shells abounded as to the usual milk filled coconuts.
Praslin Island was our last port of call before our return to Mahe.
Those who got ashore visited the Vallee de Mai, the only place in the world where the coco-de-mer (the double coconut) grows naturally. It bares a strong resemblance to my wife’s rear end! It was General Gordon, who visited Praslin on his way home from China, propounded the theory-and after seeing the coco-de-mer growing there one could understand why- that the Vallee de Mai is the site of the Garden of Eden.
 
(PHOTO Robbby G with his Coco-de-Mer)

The ships football team played the locals, we turned up- fully booted and spurred- boots, shorts and tops, against a side bare footed and bare topped. The score was more than ten nil when I stopped counting…..in their favour! Not only that, the rugby, hockey, and cricket teams were no more successful. I put it down to too much island hopping!

22nd November, we arrive back in Mahe and Port Victoria for the first mail in three weeks (not much of it) and a welcome run ashore. It was now that the souvenirs began to creep aboard: sharks backbone walking sticks, tortoise shell cigarette cases, straw hats- not to mention the coco-de- mer coconuts.
Before departing, there is one other notable occasion, namely the miss-use of one of our precious Squid Bombs, normally used for depth charging submarines.
 It seems Frigate Island wanted a larger gap in it’s coral lagoon so as to allow larger ships safer access. No problem, send in LEOPARDS bomb squad (wot.. bomb squad!).

PHOTO Using our Squids for a fish supper! "away sea boats crew".

Anyway one was hastily conjured up, consisting of the TASI, Leading Seaman Skitt and the Gunner, the Doc decided to go too, not in his medical role (no, not much!) but as the ships part-time bird watcher. It seems Frigate had its fair share of the feathered variety!

The problem was how to get the Squid Bombs ashore. After much discussion it was decided that to get the bomb in the correct position was to lash it to a 40-gallon oil drum; to be towed right into the gap and the lashings cut at the crucial moment. Who was to tow this 400lb bomb to its position, not bloody Jack, that’s for sure!

The island boatmen did a good job! Imagine trying to steer a 20-foot surfboat in a heavy stern sea, towing a 400lb bomb, and trying to stop it coming over you stern, and you will see what I mean.

The bomb now in place and charges connected by cable from bomb to dynamo-exploder, we are ready for the big bang!
The Gunner had the honour of pushing the plunger home, and if the suspense was not enough he decided on a count down. The shout of “FIRE” was heard and the expected eruption before the word was heard but nothing happened. The time lag seemed like a year but really it was only a couple of seconds before the air was rent by a huge roaring hissing noise, and a column of writhing water and rock was hurled into the air. A great cheer broke out from the locals, and our brave bomb squad, breathing a sigh of relief, were rumoured to too mutter “thank f… for that!”

After lunch inspection was made of the mornings work and it was decided another bomb was required. So it was the same procedure as before except for the placing of the charges of TNT. This proved a better decision as this time there was no time lag at time of detonation.

So there you have it, there is now a gap in the lagoon at Frigate Island to get a bloody Battleship through! Well maybe a Junk! and all thanks to, LEOPARDS BombSquad.

28th November. Mauritius-we arrived at Port Louis on a rather overcast day. This was the halfway mark in our year away.

Our first stay at Port Louis was just for the weekend and on the Monday morning we were off again and once again with non paying passengers! This time we were taking the Governor ( His Excellency Sir Robert Deverell) and Lady Deverell to visit the outlying dependency, the island of Rodrigues.

The anchorage at Rodrigues was none too safe, with reefs writhing in every direction. The Governor went ashore soon after our arrival and was able to fulfill his most important duties, but as there were three cyclones in the area and the weather was already disagreeable he re-embarked a couple of hours later and we sailed immediately.
From what we could see of Rodrigues from the anchorage under that rather lowering sky, it had seemed a rugged island of simple charm if somewhat deficient in bright lights, just as we had been told in Mauritius, and though unavoidable it was a shame that we never got the chance to go ashore there.

3rd December and we are back in Mauritius after a stormy passage from Rodrigues.

The next few days featured a series of tours to the cigarette factory, some good runs ashore and once again beach hogging, to show off our Seychelles sun tans! I don’t know why, this was not a tourist trap then, only the locals and the small detachment of Naval personnel at the RN Radio Station.